The Tsitsikamma River Trail: My Slice of Hiking Heaven

The Tsitsikamma River Trail, starting at the Tsitsikamma Lodge and Spa, was everything I could’ve hoped for—and then some. But, as with all our adventures, it kicked off a little “rocky.”

Pepper and I were stumbling around trying to figure out locations and trail lengths since we hit the Cape area. Not that we’d blame Google… well, maybe just a little. But the true culprit was us (always), confusion in hiking boots.

The trail began shrouded in mystery. Google confidently pegged it at 5 km, AllTrails mentioned a different number, and the first lodge receptionist casually mentioned, “it could take a day.” Returning for clarification, another replied, “just a couple of hours—it depends how slow you go.” (was that subtle age-based shade I detected???? Well, challenge accepted. Prepare to be proven wildly wrong.)

We set out late—around 10 a.m.—on a scorching hot day, with Pepper muttering something about needing time for other adventurous plans in Tsitsikamma.

After aimlessly wandering in circles trying to find the start of the trail, I began to question if Pepper and I should just hang up our hiking boots for good. But it turned out we weren’t the only ones looking like bewildered toddlers. Apparently, "finding the starting point" was the unspoken first challenge of the hike. Nailed it.

Once we finally started the trail, I was instantly charmed by the humour of whoever crafted the written bits. From the cheeky trail map to the snarky signs scattered along the way, it was obvious someone had way too much fun—and I felt like we’d get on famously. Shocking, I know

And the trail itself? Absolute heaven on Earth—assuming heaven has lots of very technical bits to keep you humble. With gentle streams, technical spots, and barely-there inclines, it felt like someone had custom-ordered my dream hike (and thrown in a few slippery rocks for good measure).

Now, I know this might come as a shock, but yes—I can be a tad uptight. Which makes what I’m about to confess even more remarkable: halfway through (or what we naively thought was towards the end), we stumbled upon yet another breathtaking stream. And for the first time in my life, I gave in to temptation and fully immersed myself—clothes and all. (Not before sending Pepper in first to make sure there weren’t any lurking sharks or piranhas, of course. Priorities.)

The water was perfection—not too cold and cradled by jaw-dropping natural beauty. Honestly, I could’ve stayed there forever, emerging only to live as a feral forest creature, communing with nature and side-eyeing hikers.

As we carefully clambered out of the stream (those rocks were seriously slippery), we bumped into some returning hikers. Naturally, I asked the one question that mattered: “How much further to the end?”

Their answer? Two and a half hours in, and we were only halfway. They’d turned back, saying it could take another two hours to finish—and then, of course, there’d be the joyous trek back.

Now, I really wanted to march back to reception and flash my “I did it in two hours!” gold medal. But even my pride has its limits.

Pepper and I decided to call it a day and head back. I mean, Pepper had other adventures to move on to, and I wasn’t about to hold up the man’s plans with my new, borderline obsessive love for stream swimming.

The return trip felt so much quicker, and I couldn’t shake the nagging thought that we should’ve pushed on to the end.

The Tsitsikamma River Trail? Pure magic—an absolute must-repeat. Next time, though, I’ll bring a solid plan…and maybe a little less Pepper. Just kidding, Pepper, but seriously, less plans for other adventures when you realize after the fact that the hiking was the adventure........oh and after you realize your pockets are not deep enough to afford every fancy experience in the area.

And for the love of nature, let’s start early next time!

RATINGS

AREA

Tsitsikamma River Trail, starting at Tsitsikamma Lodge, Eastern Cape, South Africa.

COST: R 50

DIFFICULTY

Very technical, with enough slippery patches to keep you guessing and praying for traction, but mercifully light on inclines. This trail isn’t about testing your cardio—It’s about testing your balance and, if you’re of a certain age, staring down a minefield of rocks while calculating the least embarrassing and safest route for the elderly. Who needs Sudoku when you’ve got real-life problem-solving like this?

LENGTH

5 km (allegedly). AllTrails says 6.5 km, but my legs insist it felt like 12.

TIME

2–3 hours each way (supposedly). AllTrails confidently claims 1 hour 44 minutes—did their sources hike it or teleport?

ELEVATION

Mostly flat with gentle inclines—until those technical sections sneak up on you.

MARKERS: Good

HIGHLIGHTS

Scenic streams perfect for cooling off, jaw-dropping nature immersion, and the aforementioned humor—it’s quirky gold, from the trail map to the signs.

ABLUTIONS

Facilities available at the lodge

SAFE FREE PARKING

AMENITIES

The lodge offers accommodations and a restaurant for post-hike indulgence.

ON A FINAL NOTE

Start early if you plan to tackle the entire trail, especially in summer. Pack plenty of water, sunscreen, and an adventurous spirit (plus a sense of humour to fully appreciate this wonderfully quirky trail).

And seriously, try finish the trail......yes, I am looking at you Pepper!!!!